Well once I was back from the snowdome the sun was out. So I decided to get off my bum and change the cam belt on my beloved Isuzu powered Cav.
First I took the power steering and alternator belts off.
Missing a fair few steps the cam belt cover was eventually off and look theres the belt itself and the tensioner. Now most garages will advise that you should change your tension pulley roller and a lot did fail at one point. However mine is an early full metalic type and therefore should last the life of the engine. (of course I've now coursed the thing by saying this). On newer cars they have plastic bits on them or if you have them replaced the new version will now have plastic bits on and thus wear out and evetually fail. You need to remember plastic ones are cheaper to make and wear out so they make money by making them a maintenance item, afterall your paying for it rather than them forking out for a new engine if they don't swap it and it fails.
So this is the belt you are ment to change every once in a while as if you don't and it snaps, thats usualy the end of most engines. To help you out here I'll name some parts:
The top pulley in the background is the cam pully (it rotates the cam shaft).
The one below that which stands out the furthest is the water pump pulley. You'll notice that is a double pulley and is rotated off the power steering belt and the alternator belt so that if one fails the water pump is still operating (a nice thought).
The small to the left is the tensioner pulley / roller, it keeps the cam belt tight so the teeth do not jump on the pulleys.
The rusty looking one below that is the cranck pulley. It's connected to the pistons.
The large pulley to the left is the oil pump pulley. It obvously pumps oil around the engine.
The small roller on the left is just a guid to keep the belt tight against the two pullies.
And finaly the one above is the injection pump pulley.
Finally bored you I guess ;)
One new belt from Halfords with discount of course.
With the belt off I check to see how it has coped with the last 50,000 miles it has done, with some of the most gruling temeratures both hot and cold. You will notice not a single crack in the teeth on this geniine Isuzu belt!
The new belt goes on starting around the top cam and injection pump sprockets. The good thing about this engine is there are holes to put bolts in the cam and injection pump sprokets to stop them moving and so keep everythin where it should be so it runs when you put it back togeather.
It's actually a right bugger to fit the last bit as its a very tight fit!
Once the belt is on you rotate the engine backwards 60 degrees and then tighten the tensioner and center bolt on the roller.
Missing alot of steps out and the covers back on the new power steering belt and alternator belts go on. The tip here is to buy the expensive drive belts from vauxhall for the Isuzu engine. You will find you can have them quiet loose and still not sqeual which means less pressure on the alternator bearings and power steering pump which means they will last a lot longer before needing t be replaced.
Now when the car was re-moted at ATS in Willenhall there was an advisory notice at the bottom saying thet the brake disc's needed changing. Now I though thats odd they're not that old. So while I had the wheels off I thought I'd have a look and measure them.
Oddly it would appear that the 'expert mechanic' knows bugger all about when brake discs need changing and was obviuously after some money for nothing. Bloody criminal.