Following changing the gearbox oil I decided that it was time to change the cam belt. Hopefully now we are in the summer the weather would stay good for me to get the job done. How wrong I was. Anyway this is the start of how I changed my timing belt on my skoda superb 1.9TD 2003 model. This also includes changing the air conditioning belt, the auxiliary belt, the water pump, the auxiliary belt tensioner and the alternator pulley. While I have got the front of the car off I thought I’d do all these serviceable items, as the car has reached 107K miles. It should be noted that you should only attempt this if you have a good mechanical skills, although compared to most once the front end of the car is off you will find it quite simple, and that this is a overview of how I did it on my car. However get it wrong and that will be the end of your engine. Your car may well not be the same. It should also be noted that there is two types of engine timing belt arrangements and also alternator pulleys and obviously this only covers the one on my car.
To start with I brought the following items:
Items from AVS
1 x #534001410 INA Alternator belt Tensioner (534001410) = £68.75
1 x 5PK1435 Gates Ribbed Belt auxiliary drive belt(5PK1435) = £7.85
1 x 4PK855 Gates Ribbed Belt air conditioning(4PK855) = £4.95
1 x #038198119A VAG Cambelt Kit (038198119A) = £79.05
Items from av taylor ltd:
Should be noted that this is a copy item and not an NIA unit
Items from Eurocarparts:
Water pump (copy unit with metallic impeller) £27.95
Items from TPS
Lower coolant hose to radiator clip £0.98
Laser – timing belt tools
Set of Spline tool ends
Set of Torqs tool ends
To do the work on the car you need to remove the front section including the lights and radiator. The car is however designed to do this with relative ease. First I raised the car on ramps before starting any further and removed the undertray.
Next the battery negative connection is removed.
First you need a T20 drive.
There are four screws to remove from the front of the wheel arch lines. Three are easily visible, a fourth at the top is not. Give them all a dam good squirt of penetrating fluid.
The top one is a pain to get at due to the curvature of the wheel arch liner, but if you use and elbow joint and extension bar as shown it makes it easy enough.
Here you can see where the top screw has been removed from. Next remove the next one down.
Followed by the next one down.
Followed by the bottom one.
All the screw on the drivers side are now removed.
Next change over to the passenger side.
Squirt the screws with penetration oil.
Remove the top screw.
Using the elbow and extension bar.
Then the next screw down.
And the next one
And the bottom one.
Remove the front bumper securing screw at front of the car below the bumper with a flat bladed screw driver.
One screw removed.
With the bonnet up it is time to remove the bumper top bolts.
Use a T30 tool end.
Remove the first one.
Remove the second one.
Remove the third one.
The bumper should now slid off. This is easier with two people. It not heavy just a lot easier with two people. As the front is removed, either side of the bumper near the wheel arch requires to be gently unclipped whilst pulling the bumper forward.
Volia the bumper is removed.
Next we are going to remove the headlamps. Before you do however get a marker pen and draw around the securing brackets. This is so when you put the car back together you will roughly know where to place them (otherwise your light beams will be way out).
Remove the circular plastic cap with a small flat bladed screw driver.
Under the cover there is a cavity to reach one of the lights lower mounting bolts.
Remove the cap for the passenger side light
Again you should see a pin securing the head light on this side.
Using a T20 tool tip it is time to remove those screws. It is also useful to have a magnetic screw collector.
Using an extension bar with the T20 tool end, place on the screw.
Undo the screw.
And then remove the screw with the magnetic tool.
On the drivers side there is a second lower mounting screw as show above.
Again once undone remove using a magnetic tool.
Undo the first of the top mounting screwa on the headlamp.
Undo the second of the screw on the top of the head lamp.
Change the tool end for a T30 tool.
Under the headlamp there is another slightly larger screw as show above.
Remove the screw.
The headlamp can now be moved forward from its position.
This allows you to get at the electrical plugs for the bulbs.
Remove the indicator plug.
Remove the main lights plug.
The lamp will not come of if you have the headlamp washers. You now need to remove the screen wash hose connection.
Remove this clip.
And drain the screen wash into a bucket.
The headlamp can now be removed.
Now to remove the passenger side headlamp.
With the T20 tool and extension bar undo the screw.
Repeat for the second lower securing screw in the position shown in the photo above.
Locate the screw under the headlamp and using a T30 tool
unscrew and remove.
Using the T20 tool tip remove the first of the top two mounting screws.
And then the second.
The headlamp is ready to be moved forward.
Pull the headlamp forward.
Remove the indicator electrical plug and also the main lights plug.
Remove the screw wash hose clip and undo the hose.
The headlamp is now free to move.
Without the headlamps the front of the car looks a lot more bare.
Time to remove the snorkel which is held in position with three screws. Using a philips screwdriver remove the first screw.
Remove the second screw.
Remove the third screw.
The snorkel can now be removed.
It is tight but it should come off here.
And remove from the engine bay.
We are now going to remove the front carrier to do this get a T30 tool tip.
Remove this bolt here on the drivers side.
Remove this bolt here on the passenger side.
Remmove the lower bolt here on the passenger side.
And remove this lower bolt here on the drivers side.
Undo the center bolt as shown in the photo above.
This section of car can then be removed.
The car with this removed now looks like this.
We are now going to remove the front bumper bar. It is located in two places to the chassis using 2 small nuts and 7 larger bolts. Use lots of penetrating oil and undo but do not remove the small nut.
Leave it like this.
Next locate the one on the passenger side.
And as per the previous on undo it but do not remove.
Leave it like this.
Back to the drivers side remove this bolt using a T40 tool tip.
Undo all four of these bolts but do not remove.
The next pone on the same side of the car.
And the next.
Repeat this for the passenger side of the car.
They are located identicaly
Undo this bolt
And these two lower bolts
These are easily reached using an extension bar.
With all the bolts loose now remove them expect for the small nuts.
These help hold the beam in place when the others are removed.
Next remove the two small nuts.
Drivers side removed.
And then the passenger side to remove.
To remove these you will need an open ended spaner.
Passenger side removed.
Remove the beam and unclip the washer hose.
The beam is now free from the car.
With the beam removed the oil cooler pipe, air condenser and radiator can now be seen. The oil cooler pipe is to be removed.
The oil cooler pipe will require to be supported wire some wire or string. Tie it as shown.
Unplug the horn electric plug on both the passenger side and driver sides of the car.
And unplug as shown above
Unbolt the oil cooler pipe as shown above.
With the bolt undone.
Remove the bolt.
And there is a second bolt near the passenger side horn.
Undo this and
Unplug the temperature sensor mounted on the oil cooler pipes.
Move the oil cooler pipe out of the way.
Next we are going to remove the air condition condenser. This does not get removed from the car just gets moved out of the way. DO NOT UNDO ANY OF THE HOSE ON THIS. On the passenger side top right of the condenser locate this bracket.
Undo the top bolt.
Undo the bottom bolt.
Remove the bolts
Do the same on the passenger side. Undo the top bolt.
Undo the bottom bolt.
Remove the bolts.
Insert the 2 all thread bars into the bolt holes that the bolts were removed from the front beam earlier
There should be one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side.
As can be seen here.
Remove the passenger side cowl from the air condensor by unscrewing the small screw.
And the plastic cowl will then just unclip from place.
Then remove the one from the drivers side by unscrewing the screw.
And remove the cowl.
This leave the condenser clear.
Remove the bracket from the passenger side of the condenser.
And remove the drivers side bracket from the condenser.
Remove the pressure switch plug.
Gently pull the top of the condenser loose and lift up slightly to remove the bottom securing ears from their mountings.
You can now rotate the condenser out of the way and support it. Here ~I have used a length of slotted unistrut on some unistrut feet from DP building supplies. It worked perfectly.
Next we need to remove the radiator and front carriage. They come away togeather. First though we need to drain the radiator.
On the bottom right hand corner of the radiator there is a drain point and tap.
Put a bucket under the drain point and rotate the tap.
The coolant will start to come out.
Once the coolant is out remove the cover over the power steering reservoir.
It is held in place by two clips under the cover where the hands are in the photo.
This allows access to the wiring connectors
Rotate each plug out of its holder.
Take them out
And then undo the plugs
Until all the cables are undone.
On the passenger wing side remove the screw from the water bottle.
Then remove the screw next to it as well.
On the passenger side remove the screw holding the front carrier to the wing.
On the passenger side remove the top screw holding the carrier to the wing.
Remove the drivers side screw holding the carrier to the wing.
Next we need to remove the engine top cover. Remove the 3 caps.
Remove the 3 holding down bolts
Lift the engine cover. It will get stuck on the dip stick just pull it over it gently.
And here we have the top of the engine.
Move the top coolant hose out of it holding pint.
Next we need to remove the bonnet catch. Remove this screw.
And this one.
Then this lower one.
And this third one.
The catch assembly will now be loose.
Before it is removed though unplug the electrical connector.
Now move the assembly out of the way.
And remove the bar to the top that goes to the bottom of the engine bay.
The bar just levers out it’s not screwed in at the bottom.
And here is the bar removed.
The front carrier assembly can now be moved forward slightly.
At this point though the coolant hoses need to be removed.
There is a cable on the drivers side of the radiator that requires to be unplugged.
Remove the bottom coolant hose clip. I found mine to be completely rusted to the point it feel apart inplace, making it a bugger to remove all of it before the pipe would release.
The clip should just pull upwards with a flat blade screw driver.
Once all the clip is removed the coolant pipe will release. A new clip will be needed.
Next move the top hose pipe clip
Move it across so that it is not holding the pipe in place.
Cover the alternator in a plastic bag to protect the alternator, in case any coolant comes out.
Twist the coolant pipe, it will be tight, but tiwsting them first helps release them. Then pull it off.
Check the O-ring is in place in the bottom hose mounting where the clip came off. Ensure it is cleaned.
With these removed the carrier can be removed leaving the front of the engine in full view.
At this point I repainted the air tube before starting part 2 actually changing the parts on the engine.