Monday, August 12, 2013

Changing the front brakes On Skoda Superb 2003 1.9T

So here is how I changed my front brake discs and pads on my Skoda Superb 1.95 2003 with 120K on it. There are proper guides available elsewhere and this is just how I did mine. Remember they are a crucial part of your cars safety so if you don’t know what your doing get someone else to do it.

Tools for the Job:


Axle Stand

Chocks for Wheels

T4 Bit end.

Six side socket 18mm

Socket for wheel nuts 17mm (preferably six sided)

Torque wrench

Short flat bladed screw driver.

Long flat bladed screw driver.


1). Place the jack under the car and locate where to lift. Loosen the wheel nuts off.

2). I used the knuckle joint as shown here.

3). Jack the car up, remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel.

4). Ensure that an axle stand is place under the car and you are NOT solely relying on the jack.

5) I purchased the pads from Euro car parts, using there PAGID brand which I have used i the past and are fine. Unfortunately VAG put all sorts of brakes on their cars, so if you go to their web site you will have choose, better though is to go instore and ask, they have a link to VAG and will look up the correct brakes. So for mine the part was 101 44 1758

6). And I also had the discs off them to part 104 44 0188

7). Using a small bladed screw driver, prise off the spring clip at the top

8). And remove

9). Once the top part is out the bottom clip will come out.

10). Next we unplug the brake pad sensor.

11). Removal of the sensor plug is by rotating it.

12). Slowly rotate

13). Once pointing the correct way

14). It will simply slide upwards

15). Next we are going to undo the sliding pins. These are accessed from the back of the calliper.

16). Locate the top rubber bung

17). And remove.

18). Inside it you will see a star bolt

19). Find the rubber bung for the lower sliding pin.

20). And remove.

21). Get a T4 Bit end

22). Using a wrench undo the slid pin at the top.

23). Undo the slide pin at the top.

24). Using a six sided socket in particular

25). size 18mm

26). Locate the top bracket bolt and loosen – do not remove yet. It will be stiff.

27). Repeat for the lower bracket bolt.

28). And loosen – do not remove yet.

29). Return to the top slide pin and undo and remove.

30). Return to the bottom slide pin and undo and remove.

31). Using a flat blade screw driver price the open slightly.

32). Until the brake pads are loose and the piston will not go back any further.

33). Remove the brake caliper.

34). And take out the brake pads.

35). The brake calliper requires supporting, here I used two long tie wraps.

36). Return to the lower bracket bolt, undo and

37). remove.

38). Return to the upper brake bracket bolt, undo

39). And remove

36). The carrier bracket will come away.

37). Remove carrier bracket from the hub.

38). The disc should now come free. It might well need a tap with a mallet.

39). The disc comes off.

40). now to clean up the hub and carrier bracket and calliper. brake dust is very unhealthy and will kill you so ensure you wear a mask.

41). Give the carrier bracket a good clean with a wire brush.

42). Give the calliper a good clean with a wire brush, ensuring the rubbers are not damaged.

43). Give the carrier bracket a real good clean up where the brake pads slide at the top

and the bottom of the bracket.

44). Check the new discs against to old ones to ensure they are the same.

All looks ok.

45). potion the disc on the hub, along with the carrier bracket.

46). Put the top bolt in slightly.

47). Put the bottom bolt in slightly.

48). Get the new brake pads out. put them along side the new brake pads. You will note that on the old ones there is an arrow. On the new ones there is a bar.  These need to match to ensure you have the right ones for the right side.

49). Put the brake pad with the springs in the calliper.

50). Remove the adhesive strip from the other pad.

51). And place in the carrier.

52). Check the pads are sitting correctly at the top.

53). Check the pads are sitting correctly at the bottom.

54). Check the pads are sitting correctly at the top on the inner side.

55). Check the pads are sitting correctly at the top on the inner side.

56). Clean and then insert the top slide pin.

57). Clean and then insert the bottom slide pin.

58). Tighten the top slide pin.

59). Tighten the bottom slid pin.

57). Remove the carrier bracket bolt from the top.

58). Apply some Loctite to it.

59). Just enough and rub into threads.

60). And reinsert it.

61) Remove the bottom one.

62). Apply Loctite and reinsert it.

63). Using a toque wrench set at 124Nm                                

64). tighten the bottom one.

65). I had to raise the jack to get enough space and leverage.

66). Repeat for the top one.

67). Next to tighten up the slider pins to 30Nm.

68). Repeat for the bottom slider pin.

69). Reposition the plug for the sensor cabling in the hub bracket

70). Locate in place

71). And then twist round to lock in postion.

73). Replace the rubber boot for the top slider pin.

74). Make sure it is position correctly.

75). Replace the rubber boot for the bottom slider pin.

76). Make sure it is position correctly.

77). Put your foot on the brake to ensure it all clamps up correctly.

78). Spin the disc round so that the holes align with the thread hub holes.

79). Replace the spring clip on the calliper.

80).  Put road wheels on, tighten to 120Nm, remove axle stand. Lower car, remove jack.



"Nowhere Near The End Of the Rainbow"
contains information that is non-accurate, made up and in some cases just down right lies. Anything in this blogg may be based on true fiction but to help dramatise it, some items may have been embellished. Some names are made up, others are not and any that are familar to yours just are.





 Near The End Of The Rainbow

An account of something that may one day turn out to be wonderful.......