Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Changing the rear brakes On Skoda Superb 2003 1.9TD

So here is how I changed my rear brake discs and pads on my Skoda Superb 1.95 2003 with 120K on it. There are proper guides available elsewhere and this is just how I did mine. Remember they are a crucial part of your cars safety so if you don’t know what your doing get someone else to do it.

Tools for the Job:


Axle Stand

Chocks for Wheels

Open ring spanner 15mm

Six side socket 13mm

Socket for wheel nuts 17mm (preferably six sided)

Torque wrench

Piston rewind tool.

Short flat bladed screw driver.

Long flat bladed screw driver.


1) I purchased the pads from Euro car parts, using there PAGID brand which I have used i the past and are fine. Unfortunately VAG put all sorts of brakes on their cars, so if you go to their web site you will have choose, better though is to go instore and ask, they have a link to VAG and will look up the correct brakes. So for mine the part was 101 440328

2). And I also had the discs off them to part 104 44 0198

3). Loose the wheel nuts and then get ready to jack the car up.

4) I supported the car on the double nuts joint. DO NOT jack it up on the axle beam or the floor section. Also place a axle stand under the car to take the load should the jack fail. NEVER Rely solely on a jack. Chock the wheels to prevent the car moving forwards and backwards.

3) With the car supported, undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel. For extra security put it under the sill of the car.

4). Round the back of the brakes is the hand brake cable. Remove the circlip using a flat blade screw driver.

5). It comes out upwards.

6). Get ready not to let it flick away and get it in your fingers.

7). Let the hand brake off.

8). Get a long blade flat screw driver and lever the sprung arm upwards to allow the had brake cable nipple to be removed.

9). Not doubt this can be tight and awkward.

10). But it will come out.

11). With some persuasion.

12). Pull the cable back through the the bracket how and move out of the way.

13). Next you will need these

14). A 15mm open ended ring spanner and a six sided 13mm socket.

15). On the top sliding pin hold the pin securely using the ring spanner and undo the bolt end.

16). Repeat for the bottom sliding pin.

17). Keep going unit the bolt comes out.

18). Remove the bolt.

19). go back to the top on e and finish removing that bolt.

20). Using a flat blade screw drive insert it inside the caliper and nudge the caliper so that it moves slightlt

21). This should allow the caliper to come off in your hand.

22). Move the caliper out of the way and ensure it is supported in someway and NOT by the brake pipe.

23). Remove the brake pads

24). This should then allow the brake disc to be removed. It might need a tap with a mallet.

25). Then just slide it out

26). Now we are left with the hub.

27). Inpsect the brake disc to see there is any unusual wear.

28). and check the other side. This one apears fine but it is obvious on the one on the other side it was not using both sides of the disc.

29). Here is the one from the otherside of the car.

30). It is important to clean the brakes. Ensure you wear a mask and gloves. The brake dust is a killer and definitely not good for you. Clean the hub using a wire brush but be careful not to damage any rubber parts. We are looking at removing the old brake dust and dirt.

31). In particular clean the brackets where the pads need to move. Sometimes its good to use copper gresse other times its not. Here we are just cleaning up the surfaces and using them dry.

32). Check the new part against the old part to ensure it is the same.

33). Get the brake pads ready. This come with an adhesive backing to stop rattling.

34). Pull the adhesive backings off.

35). Slide the new disc in place on the hub.

36). Now you need a winding tool to push the piston back into the caliper. Unlike some cars you do need one of these or you will be stuck at this point! Place the tool in the calliper. You will not the two teeth that locate in the groves of the piston. As you turn the hand the piston is forced back and turned at the same time. My pistons were tight and I use a bigger spanner on the end rather than the turning lever.

37). Once the piston is FULLY rewinded put the brake pads in place.

38). Using the NEW bolts SUPPLIED with prelocktited we are going to put the calliper back on.

39). Put the calliper in position and insert the first bolt a couple of turns.

40). Move the calliper so that the bottom bolt can be inserted.

41). Hand turn a couple of times.

42). using the ring spanner and socket, tight up the top bolt.

43). Repeat for the bottom bolt.

44). Check the pads are still located correctly. If not take apart and correct.

45). Using a torque wrench tighten the bolts up to 35Nm

46). Repeat the torque wrench tightening for the lower bolt

47). Move the hand brake cable

48). Route it back through the bracket hole.

49) Line up the cable and nipple.

50). Using a flat bladed screw driver lever the handbrake lever upwards to allow the nipple to fit in the shoe.

51). Release the leave and check it is fitted well.

52). Put the circlip back in place and ensure it is correctly fixed.

53). Put your foot on the brake several times and try the handbrake.

54). Check the brakes look fine.

55). Put the wheel nuts on (tighten to 120Nm).

56). Remove axle stand.

57). Lower Jack, and remove Jack.



No comments:

Post a Comment


"Nowhere Near The End Of the Rainbow"
contains information that is non-accurate, made up and in some cases just down right lies. Anything in this blogg may be based on true fiction but to help dramatise it, some items may have been embellished. Some names are made up, others are not and any that are familar to yours just are.





 Near The End Of The Rainbow

An account of something that may one day turn out to be wonderful.......