I wasn’t sure what it was I wanted for breakfast, then it came to me. Dippy Egg Breakfast.
A while later I was at the Green Mk2 Skoda Superb and in my scruffs ready to give it it’s first service in my hands.
I buy the parts from AVS vw spares, as follows for my model CRTDI 2.0 (170) and year of car:
Bosch R2597 (1987432597) Cabin Filter £6.60
Bosch S9404 (1987429404) Air Filter £7.62
Febi 15374 Sump Plug and Seal £1.14
Bosch P9192 (1457429192) Oil Filter £4.26
Bosch N0008 (1457070008) Fuel Filter £13.08
Quantum Longlife III 5w30 (5-Litre) £26.73
Febi Gearbox oil £10 x 2 for 2 liters
For Oil Change:
32mm oil filter socket
posidriver screw driver
For Air filter:
Posidrive screw Driver
For Gearbox oil change:
10mm Hex socket
This is how I serviced my car, how you do yours is up to you:
I changed the cabin filter under the glovebox, remove the panel under the glove box by removing the two knobs, then remove the panel. Next slide the cover to the left and remove the plastic cover. Then slide the cabin filter out.
As usual this has not been changed for a while. Take it out and then slide in the new one
now the people in the car are going to breath easier.
The car is positioned on some ramps to raise the front and then we start work. So we open the bonnet and then lift the front of engine cover upwards. There are no bolts to remove on the Mk2, just lift and it will pop up even if it does not feel like it. It is secured with ball joints. The front will come off then the rear will follow.
Under neither the cover is what looks like an engine. On the left we have the fuel filter, screen wash and coolant. To the right we have the airflow meter,battery bay, fuses and below that, the air filter. Right in the middle where you can’t see yet at the front of the engine is the oil filter.
First to remove the air filter.
Remove the screws as shown in the following pictures.
For some reason there is a fair few of them.
One wonders why not clips like the Mki1?
Better with a magnetic tipped screw driver.
However if one does fall through it will most likely just get caught in the under tray, which we are taking off later to do the oil change.
One at the back.
And then the same on the other side.
Lift the cover off and there is the air filter.
Remove from the box by lifting it out.
Get new filter out and place in the air filter box.
Put the cover on and screw it down with all the screws.
Next we are going to undo the oil filter. To get at it, you first need to remove the electrics that are bracketed off the metal plate at the top of the photo. This is simply clicked into position. On mine it was on the bracket. In one way a good thing, as it means someone has been here before me, and in another a bad thing as it means they couldn’t be arsed to put it back on.
Put the electrics out of the way so you can get at the top of the oil filter. Remove the bolt holding the bracket tin position.
Now to make the job easy, get an oil filter socket. I have this set, cost a tenner. Select the 32mm socket.
With the use of an extension bar put the socket on the oil filter.
And undo it, but not remove it at this point.
Next we go under the car, and remove the under tray. Remove the three bolts at the back, and the numerous side bolts using a T25 driver. Then undo the two clips along the front edge and the cover will pull backwards. Remove any screws for the air filter on the way if you dropped them earlier.
So this is under the car. To the right the gearbox, to the left the engine and at the top left corner the intercooler air pipe. Undo this by the clip.
Pull it clear once the clip is undone.
Now your checking for large quantity of oil dripping, you will get a little bit, but the other thing to let out is any condensated water.
Clean around the inside with a cloth.
Then put it back on, making sure it is in place properly and then doing the clip up tight. Suggest a spanner is used on the jubilee clip rather than a screw driver.
Next we get ready to take out the sump plug. A 19mm spanner is required.
Get the oil collection can ready under the car and then turn the spanner. No doubt the last person will have tightened this up too much.
Remove the sump plug and let out the old oil into the catchment container.
Back above the car, undo the oil filter top completely.
Then lift out of place by pulling upwards.
Then pull it out and put it in the oil catchment container.
Check the oil filter housing is clean and no O-rings have been left in there or such like.
Ge the new oil filter ready and the new O-ring fore the top.
Remove the o-ring from the threaded section of the top.
It simply pulls off. Remove the oil filter part, it simply pulls off too.
Give the top a wipe over to clean it.
And then put the new O-ring over it.
Seat it at the top, and put a dab of fresh engine oil on it.
Push the new filter inplace and put some new engine oil on the smaller o-ring.
Put the oil filter back in place.
And using the spanner tighten it.
Do not over tighten it, first it will go tight as the larger O-ring on the top makes contact. Then tighten it into fully seated.
Once the top is in place correctly it is time to put the bracket and pipe back in place.
Move it into position and put the bolt in, tighten it gently.
Clip the electrics back on the bracket.
Once the oil has drained, put in the new sump plug and washer. Using a new plug and washer will save you having to overtighten the plug to make it seal. And they are less than £1.50. Then get your correct grade of oil. Now I am going to change the oil every 10K, so I have selected suitable oil. If you are using the variable servicing mileage you need the expensive oil grade. Personally I’d never rely on the variable service timing if you intend to keep the car. But your choice, the turbo will not thankyou for it, or the next owner.
Pour the oil in, the maximum to go in is 4 litres. So best to put in 3 litres and then top it up after checking the dipstick once the engine has been run on LEVEL ground.
Next would be the fuel filter, however that I am doing separately. Now you can put the top back on the car. And also the bottom cover. Unless you are changing the gearbox oil which is next.
Now as the car has covered some 140K, I’m going to change the gearbox oil. Something most people never do. But if your car has got to 100K or is wining then this is a good thing to do, and on the Mk2 simple. From under the car these are the two plugs.
This is the filler plug. And before you drain the oil out of the gearbox ALWAYS undo this one first. Just in case it is seized.
This one is the drain plug.
So we are going to remove the filler plug.
For these we need a 10mm hex bit.
Check it fits the plug tightly.
And then screw.
Next get two jugs ready to catch the old gearbox oil. We want to measure the amount that comes out so we can put the same amount back in.
Put the container in the right position, the gearbox oil will come out very quickly.
Undo the plug.
And before you know it the oil is out.
About 2 litres of dark oil will come out. Once emptied put the gearbox drain plug back in and tighten it.
And here is the replacement gearbox oil. Use goodstuff or the VW stuff. This Febi oil cost around £10 a litre. You need 2.
Remove the filler plug and then stick the nozzle from the bottle in the hole. You will need to invert the bottle. So first take the cap off the bottle. Put your finger over the nozzle invert the bottle and put it higher than the filler plug. Put the nozzle against the hole and then move your finger and nozzle into the hole quickly.
Repeat for the second bottle, only adding the same amount that was taken out. In my case two litres.
Put the filler plug back in and tighten it up.
and with that done top and bottom covers go on.
Run the car on level ground and then let it settle. Recheck the oil level and top up as required.
Wash any other cars in the mean time.
Put your feet up and
relax like a possessed dog!